The Milos Edit
where to eat, stay, and explore in the Greek island of Milos!
Milos is a small volcanic island in the Cyclades known for its dramatic landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and some of the most scenic beaches in all of Greece. It was a highlight of last summer's trip and I’ve finally got around to compiling everything you need to plan your visit — bucket list beaches, best bites, where to stay, and what to know before you go.
Airbnb is 1000% the way to go here. Rent a buggy or ATV and don't stress too much about which town you're in, because nothing on the island is that far. But here's a quick breakdown of your options so you can choose the vibe that fits
Pollonia: Northeast corner of the island, right on the water. Good waterfront restaurant strip, beach, and it’s where ferries to the neighboring island of Kimolos depart.
Adamas: The main port and most practical option. Ferries arrive here, buses depart from here, and you can walk to car rentals, supermarkets, and restaurants. If you’re not renting a vehicle, this might be a good home base.
Klima: If you want something truly one-of-a-kind, you can sleep in a converted syrma (traditional boathouse) right on the water. There’s basically one restaurant and one shop, so you’ll need a mode of transportation — but the setting is unreal. Better for a short stay or if you’re really committed to the aesthetic.
[We went back and forth on booking a Klima syrma and ultimately decided against it since we knew we’d be on the move all day and it was a more expensive option. I could do a full Airbnb review post because I loved where we stayed so much, but short version: private pool, incredible views, and the kind of place you don’t want to leave. Book here.]
Sarakiniko Beach ****number one, must-do thing***
It earns every photo. Go early (9-9:30 AM at the latest in summer) before it gets crowded, or set your alarm and go at sunrise. We did both, and sunrise was so worth it. Go extra extra early and watch the sky turn pink and orange over the rocks before the actual sunrise hits.
There are two spots to jump from if you're feeling it. Getting in is easy; getting out requires swimming into a small pool area where the waves can push you around and the rocks are slippery. Worth it, just know what you're signing up for.
Mandrakia
A 10-15 minute drive from Sarakiniko and one of the more genuinely stunning things I've ever seen in person. Tiny fishing village on the northern coast, with little houses built right into the cliffs over the water. Walk around, jump in the water, lay out, and grab lunch at Medusa while you're here.
Tsigrado Beach (aka the secret ladder beach on TikTok)
Yes, you have to climb down two ladders to get there, but it’s not as terrifying as it sounds. Bring sneakers, not flip flops and a backpack over a tote bag will make your life significantly easier. Once you’re down, you’ll fine a remote, calm beach. Some people arrive by boat, but it doesn’t get too crowded.
Fyriplaka Beach
If Tsigrado feels like too much of a production, Fyriplaka is a great alternative and it’s right nearby.
Provatas Beach
Another south coast option known for its calm, sheltered waters. More organized than Tsigrado or Fyriplaka with sunbeds available. On my list for the next trip.
Klima
Another fishermen's village but with a much different feel from Mandrakia. The syrmata here are color-blocked in blues, reds, and yellows. There's not much to do beyond walking around and taking it in (one restaurant, one small shop), but the scenery is stunning. Sunset here is supposed to be exceptional if you have the time.
Plaka
The hilltop capital of the island. Would love to go back here for a bite to eat at sunset next time.
Depending on the amount of time you have, I always love to see a new place with a boat day on the water. Viator has great tour options here.
O! Hamos!
If you only have one dinner on this island, this is it. Highly reviewed, wildly popular on social media, and actually worth the hype. The menus are handwritten and tell the story of how the restaurant came to be. The food is adventurous (they will try very hard to sell you on the piglet. We did not order the piglet), but there is still something for everyone. We got the quinoa salad with local cheese, saganaki, and the goat pasta, (which I was skeptical about and then immediately obsessed with). Wine comes by the personal pitcher for about 5 euros. Best meal of the entire trip.
Pro Tip: It’s okay if you don’t have a reservation. Show up anyway and grab a beach chair and drink across the street while you wait. It's the perfect setup for catching the sunset while you wait to be seated. Skip the cocktails and stick to wine or beer, you'll spend half as much.
Medusa Restaurant
A tiny restaurant in the tiny fishing village of Mandrakia, and a must-visit while you’re exploring the north end of the island. Known for its octopus* but the Greek salad and baked feta with honey are equally worth ordering. The owner is incredibly kind and, randomly, a massive Dallas Cowboys fan. *PS. You can order the half portion (one leg) for about 8-9 euros just to say you tried it.
Milos Rustic — highly reviewed local spot
Hanabi Seaside Sushi — on the list for next time
Artemis Bakery Shop — for a morning pastry situation
Utopia Cafe — in Plaka, famous for its sunset views; get there early, the tables go fast
Rent a buggy or ATV! We used Apollonas (recommended by our Airbnb) — they delivered it right to us for about €80 for 24 hours. Book in advance during peak season.
Pack a backpack for your day around the island! Sunscreen, WATER, sneakers, and a change of dry clothes were the essentials we brought with us.
The whole island is closer than it looks! North to south is about 35-40 minutes. You can see a lot in a single day if you're moving.
Here’s how we made the most of out of our day on the island:
Love the name of your substack! Greece has been on my list for a while 👀👀
omg I have to find a way here this summerrr